Augusta Lawn Care Services

Should You Mow Before You Blow Off?

Mon, 17 Dec 2018 15:21:00 GMT

For years people have debated about the order in which you service a lawn. Some say you must cut the grass, then edge, trim, and blow off all surrounding surfaces. Others say just the opposite or some other mixture of those steps.

Those arguing for mowing first claim that this is the best order since you can then trim edges of lawn to the precise height that you cut the grass at. Trimming after mowing also ensures that you don't miss any spots that are unreachable with the mower.

The second train of thought is that mowing should be done last, after trimming and blowing. This method ensures that all the clippings/dirt that is tossed onto roads/sidewalks are picked up in the grass catcher of the mower and not laid out on the lawn.

To my opinion, it all really comes down to a few things:

1) Where you live in the country

2) If you are bagging/mulching and the type of grass

3) Your time commitment to lawn

Here at Augusta Lawn Care Services we service clients in Blaine/Birch Bay, Washington. We encounter a lot of rain. We bag all the clippings from our jobs and spend as much time as needed to make the lawn look perfect. Thus, we use the second method; we trim and edge, then blow off all sidewalks, then mow the yard, then blow off again.

If you live in Southern States where it is hot and your grass type is different mowing first may be a more time-effective approach. However, in the Pacific Northwest, if you trim and edge there will be a lot of thick grass clippings and dirt along the driveway. I would rather have that junk in my trailer, being hauled off, than on the top of the freshly cut grass. We blow off sidewalks twice (after trimming/edging and after mowing) to ensure that any clippings dropped from the mower when it is being placed back into trailer are all cleaned up.

Preparing your Garden Beds for Mulch

Mon, 02 Apr 2018 14:21:00 GMT

Start with the weeds!

As we should in a place where we get so much rainfall. All landscapers and lawn care companies in the Bellingham area have their own method to get weeds out of your garden beds. A great way to do-it-yourself is to buy a simple push-pull hoe. Also known and marketed as a scuffle/stirrup hoe or stirrup loop. This is an effective and easy way to attack weeds at the roots, all you need to do is pick them up and throw them in your landscape bag! Another great thing about the push-pull hoe is that you are cultivating at the same time you are getting the weeds out of your beds.

Now that they're gone, KEEP THEM GONE!

Once you have a cultivated and weeded garden, it is time to get some preventative measures on the ground before you spread your soil of choice. Herbicide is a great way to have a weed-free garden. Round-up , crossbow or any glyphosate compound is a very effective way to keep the weeds down for months at a time especially when used with mulch. They are also very good against horse-tails and some of the more hardy weeds in the Bellingham area. If you have pets or kids that play around outside or in the yard there are still some great safe products you can use. Acidifying agents are on the market that are made from vinegars, salts and less harmful detergents that are still very effective. Another way to almost indefinitely prevent weeds is garden fabric. Laying one sheet of garden fabric is a sure way to keep weeds down, most fabrics on the market are water permeable too so you won't have standing water on your property!

It's time for mulch!

Once you have successfully prepped your garden beds you can go ahead and apply your favorite mulch! A typical depth of mulch used is 3-4 inches, that will generally last about a year until you will want to re-apply but you may even go up to 6 inches if you really want to suppress weeds for a substantial amount of time.

Lawn & Garden Treatments We Use at Augusta

Mon, 04 Dec 2017 15:21:00 GMT

Granular Lawn Care Fertilizers

WEED & FEED is the generic name for a broad range of lawn chemical products designed to strengthen existing grass and kill off certain weeds in a single application. Weed and Feed improves your lawn’s ability to absorb necessary nutrients which promote healthy growth. It’s important to apply Weed & Feed when weeds are actively growing. The “weed” portion of Weed and Feed is one of a variety of broad leaf-targeted herbicides that attacks dandelions, clover, and most other green leafy weeds. The “feed” portion of Weed & Feed is a fertilizer that contains some combination of nitrogen, phosphorous, and/or potassium to green up your lawn. Apply Weed & Feed twice per year. Weed & Feed prevents seed germination, so you should avoid planting new grass or aerating your lawn for at least four weeks. Keep pets and children off the lawn until after the first drenching rain after application. If applied unevenly the high nitrogen concentration can leave burn marks or patches on the grass.

LIME is used to control the acidity of your soil. Most types of lawn grass grows best in slightly acidic soil with a pH between 6 and 7. If your soil pH is below 5.5 (acidic), your lawn won’t grow well. Don’t expect an extra application of fertilizer to help because highly acidic soil can’t absorb nutrients effectively. If you live a rainy area (like Whatcom County) where acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons and camellias thrive, your soil is likely acidic and may benefit from lime lawn treatment. Moss often grows once acidic soil begins limiting the nutrients supplied to your grass, providing room for moss to sneak in.

MOSS OUT: Lawn moss is arises due to a maintenance problem of taking care of the soil of the lawn. The moss eventually becomes a problem in and of itself, taking nutrients from the grass, turning your grass to a sickly yellow coloring. Moss Out Granules help deal with the first problem, as well as killing the moss as well. Turning the grass a nice healthy shade of green is one of the benefits of using Moss Out. Moss thrives in damp, shady lawns where the soil is acidic and drainage is poor. Under these conditions moss can spread into areas where grass once grew. Killing the moss gives grasses a chance to “reclaim” the lawn. Moss Out has 10% Iron to kill lawn moss and green the grass. Because no fertilizer is added you get moss control and greening without excessive growth that requires frequent mowing.

Granular Weed Killers

Casoron is a selective pre-emergence granular herbicide that prevents many variety of weeds and grasses. Casoron controls weeds before they emerge from the ground, by forming an herbicidal vapor barrier in the upper layer of the soil when activated by rainfall or irrigation water. Casoron should be applied before weed seed germination and emergence from the soil (usually from mid-winter to early spring). A single application will usually provide season-long weed control.

Noxall granules kill unwanted weeds and grasses. This non-selective product destroys all vegetation in its path and is ideal for spreading on walkways, along fences and under decks which need to be free of weeds. Noxall is effective on weeds, brush and all types of vegetation This proprietary formula kills existing vegetation down to the roots and prevents re-growth for one year.

Preen is a granular seed and weed preventer for gardens. It can be sprinkled directly onto the soil or on top of the mulch around plants. It prevents new seeds from sprouting and rooting. It’s best applied when the soil is dry.

Chemical Sprays

Glyphosate-Based Spray is a broad-spectrum systemic herbicide and crop desiccant. It is used to kill weeds, especially annual broadleaf weeds and grasses that compete with crops, and leaves of plants. It prevents the plants from making certain proteins that are needed for plant growth. Glyphosate controls more than 100 annual and perennial weeds including over-the-top application to roundup ready canola, corn, cotton and soybeans. Cornerstone and Hi Yield are common brand names. Pets may be at risk if they touch or eat plants that are still wet with spray from products containing glyphosate.

Roof Treatment

Moss-B-Ware is a white powder designed to kill and prevent moss on roofs, patios, walkways and other outdoor surfaces and is safe for use on wood, composition, concrete and many kinds of metal. It can either be sprinkled dry or mixed with water based on the needs of your surfaces. For use any time of the year.

How to Make Your Lawn Look Like a Golf Course

Mon, 06 Nov 2017 15:21:00 GMT

Spring has us all looking outdoors for the long awaited sunshine, the fun-filled outdoor activities and festivities. Our vitamin D deficient bodies long to feel the warmth and crave time spent outside. For many of us it turns our minds to improving or creating a place in our gardens that would inspire outdoor living or raise the curb appeal of our homes.

Let’s look at a few of the common issues that homeowners encounter in Whatcom County when trying to have a lush, green lawn. The Northwest’s moist environment can wreak havoc on the lawn of your dreams. Things like moss, weeds and thatch can take over your property and make it difficult for your visions to materialize. Fortunately with a little knowledge and effort these problem areas can be overcome.

MOSS TREATMENT

After serving thousands of local properties, we have found moss to be the arch nemesis of homeowners. Moss tends to run rampant in areas of shade, poor drainage, and compacted or acidic clay soil. Attention Blaine residents, this probably includes you! Moss has a tendency to grow wherever grass is not thick and healthy. For that reason, it is important to treat your lawn with fertilizers with the right balance of nutrients! Next time you see a bag of fertilizer you will see a set of three numbers. For example, 25-0-8 would indicate the levels of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium respectively. This nutrient profile is typical for Broadleaf Weed Prevention fertilizers. You may also see Iron of 10% which helps combat moss reproduction. For very shady areas reseeding with shade tolerant grass seed will keep the lawn thick and reduce the ability of moss to spread. Another great way to keep moss away from your lawn is aerating.

CORE AERATION

Core Aeration is when lipstick-tube sized plugs of soil are removed from your lawn surface. This will allow improved air exchange between soil and atmosphere and enhance water uptake, to create a healthier root system for your grass. If you look in the core holes 1-2 weeks after aeration treatment, you will see dozens of little white roots hairs extending from the core perimeters... those are little grass roots growing deeper, aided by the additional nutrient supply.

DANDELIONS AND BROADLEAF WEEDS

Another aggressive enemy to having the lawn of your dreams is the dreaded variety of weeds. It is important to stop dandelions, clover, and other broadleaf weeds early to stop them from multiplying in your grass. Applying Nitrogen-based fertilizers and keeping your lawn from going dormant in Summer, will keep the pesky weeds out of your lawn.

DE-THATCHING

Another element that will help you to achieve the lush healthy grass of your dreams is thorough dethatching. Thatch is an organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems and roots, which includes small pieces of dead grass. Usually this decomposing organic material is nutrient-rich and beneficial for the grass but if the turf produces debris faster than it can be broken down, this can weaken your lawn greatly and is important to take care of it by dethatching. Often a lawn that feels spongy is in need of dethatching. In doing this, you get rid of the physical barrier that is blocking sunlight and water from getting to the suffocated grass roots.

MAKE YOUR LANDSCAPE LOW-MAINTENANCE

Here are a few tips to reduce the amount of time and water it takes to maintain your lawn and landscaping.

As previously mentioned, core aeration allows the grass roots to grow deeper and thus makes your lawn more drought-tolerant. Less water will be needed to keep it green during the Summer.

Having plants that require an endless balance of care can get irritating. Making the switch to low-maintenance plants can help with the stress of making sure your property looks tip-top shape. The North West offers a variety of beautiful, native, low-maintenance plants that can transform your garden. Examples of these plants include: ferns, pompous grass, and our Washington States plant, rhododendrons.

When it comes to water consumption, we all want that water bill to be as low as possible. There are ways of helping your garden and your check book this season by maximizing water savings. Rain catchment systems are a great alternative to the ever increasing water bill that we have to pay to accomplish the desire of our property. Rain catchment systems channel water from your roof and gutters and stores it in a reservoir.

Consider refreshing your flower beds with a layer of landscape bark mulch or compost this year, doing so can increase the efficiency of the water used by retaining the moisture of the soil below. Refreshing the beauty bark or compost in your gardens also serves as a way to combat weed growth and minimizes time required to pull weeds.

If you are tired of watering, fertilizing, and mowing your lawn, you might want to consider xeriscaping. Xeriscaping, which became popular in drought afflicted areas, is a style of landscaping that requires very little watering or maintenance. If you are replacing your lawn with xeriscaping there are cost effective ways to make the transfer. Instead of excavating your existing turf, you can just cover the lawn with road fabric, which is a water-permeable material that doesn’t allow vegetation to grow through. This in turn eliminates the cost of having to haul your excavated lawn off-site and allows you to spend money focused on the xeriscaping itself. There are creative and visually-appealing ways to install a low-maintenance landscape. Creating a dry riverbed with cobblestones is charming and has great curb appeal; a flagstone patio instead of a lawn might make your backyard more functional for activities and get-togethers. Visit our website at https://www.augustalawncareservices.com/ and go to the “Videos” section for further great xeriscaping and landscaping ideas.

How to Improve Your Lawn for $1,000 or LESS!

Mon, 09 Oct 2017 14:21:00 GMT

Spring has sprung! It's time to start thinking about your lawn again. We want to give you some ideas on how to save some money while giving your home better curb appeal. If you want to give your lawn an extra-sharp look this season we suggest giving it a new edge. "Edging" is re-shaping your lawns edge to create a crisp transition from grass to dirt. Whether you use a manual edger or an edging machine, it is a cheap and effective way to make your property look tip-top. Another great way to keep your lawn happy this season is to keep up with treatments and fertilization. Core aeration and thatching are also a sure way to improving your grasses health and wholeness.

Tired of dealing with your grass all together? Get rid of it! You do not need to go through the hassle of digging up deep-rooted grass when you can use road fabric or a similar permeable weed barrier to erase your lawn and start fresh. This is an adequate and cost-efficient way to not have to deal with having a lawn. What do you replace it with? You might consider installing a dry river bed, all you need are cobbles and your preferred garden mulch or bark to complement them and you're off to the races. If you are an avid gardener then maybe you invest in pre-built raised beds and start an herb garden or grow fresh produce!

Hydration is the Key to Life for you and your lawn

Mon, 12 Jun 2017 14:21:00 GMT

With the summer temperatures rising. It is important to not only be hydrated, but to stay hydrated. Studies have shown that the average adult should consume 67% of their weight in ounces of water every day. But lets be serious, who really remembers to drink that much? We go hours without even a thought that we are thirsty, until we find ourselves with a pulsating headache or even worse, a feeling of weakness and dizziness. Although 75% of people in the U.S suffer from dehydration, it is something that can be prevented simply by making the proper amount of water intake a norm. As water is a key to life in the human body, so is it important in nature, and at August Lawn Care Services we make it our goal to keep your lawn looking alive and energetic. But the number one factor to that is, proper watering technique. Here are a few tips to efficient watering. Water in the early mornings. The peak time is between 4am-10am. If you water in the evening then your lawn will sit in a soggy mess creating a perfect environment for fungus and the growth of a shallow root system. Which you don’t want. The fewer watering’s the deeper the roots have to go in order to find hydration. Water 2-3 times a week, for 30mins or until the water soaks 6inches deep into the soil.

In addition to frequent watering, you should mow your lawn, fertilize and aerate the soil to create yourself the most sought after lawn on this side of the cascades.

How to Properly Prune Trees

Mon, 08 May 2017 14:21:00 GMT

Lets first as HOW to prune a tree limb....

3 Steps:

1.) Make the first cut about one or two feet out from the tree trunk. This cut starts on the underside of the limb and goes into it, but only about a third of the way. This is a very important step in the process.

2.) Make sure the second cut is outside of the first cut another foot or two. Make this cut all the way through the branch. The branch is likely to break away as you saw your way through the limb. Because you’ve already made the first cut on the underside and closer in, the bark will not continue to tear down into the tree trunk.

Without the first cut, as the branch breaks away from the weight of the limb, the attached and uncut bark goes with it, tearing it from the tree as well. This creates a big potential problem, allowing a large open wound and entry point for pests and diseases.

3.) The final cut is right at the branch collar where the branch meets the trunk. Look for the flaired area here. Make the final cut so that the flair is still apparent afterwards. If cut properly, this flair will heal over and eventually fill in with new bark and scar tissue. You’ll know the tree is healing properly when you notice what looks like a doughnut forming where you made the cut.

Now WHEN to prune a tree's limbs....

The best time to remove tree branches and limbs is in late fall through late winter. Disease pathogens are inactive and therefore not a serious risk to damaging your trees. However, a fresh cut or wound during the warmer months can be an easy entry point for diseases and pests.

Be aware that there are some trees that 'bleed' excessively when cut. This is sap oozing from the fresh wound. Although it looks serious and unsightly, it causes no harm. Some trees that are especially prone to bleeding include beech, birch, elm, maple and yellowwood.

You may be inclined to dress fresh cuts or wounds with tree paint or wound dressing, sold and marketed as such. My suggestion is that it is rarely necessary and most of the time actually slows down the natural healing process. Trees are amazing at adapting to adverse conditions so my advice is to make a clean cut and leave it alone.

Pruning tree limbs can be a great improvement to the look and health of your total landscape if you follow the guidelines mentioned above. Taking shortcuts or pruning at the wrong time can lead to more problems later.

How to Revive Your Lawn & Spend under $100

Mon, 10 Apr 2017 14:21:00 GMT

Got weeds?

Apply Weed and Feed fertilizer (granules are fine). Do one application and three weeks later do another one. Make sure to water the lawn directly after application or make sure rain is in the future forecast. Raw Materials: $40-$60

Applied by Augusta Lawn Care Services: $60-80

Got moss?

Option #1: Apply a dose of MossOut twice, three weeks apart.

Materials: $40-60

Applied by Augusta Lawn Care Services: $60-80

Option #2: Aeration - Use an aerator to remove core plugs from the lawn and allow the roots to breathe and receive nutrients. This also adds drainage and allows the soil to dry out, which helps prevent moss germination.

Rent Aerator: $60-70

Performed by Augusta Lawn Care Services: $80-200

Got thatch?

Use a power rake or dethatching machine to get all the organic waste that has accumulated at the base of the grass stems. Many times this is the "root" (no pun intended) issue of weed issues.

Rent Thatcher: $60-70

Performed by Augusta Lawn Care Services: $80-200

There are other (further advanced) methods of correcting lawn issues. Sometimes a combination of these techniques are used and in extreme instances topsoil should be brought in. Call Augusta Lawn Care Services for all your lawn care needs.

What is Dethaching and Aeration?

Mon, 06 Mar 2017 15:21:00 GMT

Aeration and thatching are means to promoting a healthy, green lawn. If your lawn is being taken over by moss, has poor drainage, or has weeds taking it over then this is a must-read treatment for your lawn.

First, let’s talk about thatching. Thatch is the layer of dead clippings, dirt, and leaves that can often settle down into the lawn and prevent water, sunlight, and nutrients to penetrate into the soil and root systems of the grass. The main cause of thatch is the accumulation of grass clippings that have not been bagged during mowing. The clippings that are not bagged and are left on the lawn settle down to the base of the growing grass leaves. Once the grass clippings die they remain there and over time create a web-like blanket. Because of this build-up above the soil, the surface of the roots are starved of needed nutrients. In order to maximize nutrient absorption the roots grow near the surface of the soil and don’t grow deep. This makes for poor growth and color of the lawn. It also gives ample opportunity for the growth of moss and broad-leaf weeds that can thrive with shallow root systems. Thatch must be removed in order for the roots to receive sunlight and water. To do this you can use a power raker machine or landscape rake. This treatment is quite stressful to the grass since you are essentially ripping the thatch from the base of the lawn. Make sure to water and fertilize right after dethatching to prevent the actual grass from dying.

Aeration is what golf courses use at least once a year to keep their fairways and greens in the best condition possible. Aeration is typically performed using a machine to remove approximately 2 inch plugs out of the soil. This gives fertilizer, water, sunlight, and other nutrients direct access to the root systems below the surface of the soil. A few days after aeration if you look into the punched holes you will see the grass roots spreading throughout, maximizing their exposure to nutrients and allowing them to grow deeper. Deep grass roots mean a more resilient lawn that needs less watering and isn’t overcome with weeds. Some people leave the plugs of removed soil laying on the surface of the lawn. This is done so that the nutrients in the soil decompose and recycle themselves back into the lawn. Other people like to collect the plugs of soil that are caused from aeration since they aren’t the most sightly things in the world. If you want to remove the soil plugs be sure to fertilize the lawn and even apply some top soil to ensure the remaining lawn has ample mineral and nutrient content.

Results are best when aeration and dethatching are performed together and that is the sequence we use at Augusta Lawn Care Services. This gives the roots the best chance of receiving nutrients and growing deeper into the soil. If you have questions about lawn care treatment and mowing or want more info about our lawn care services, please feel free to contact us.